As a "Solo Traveller" decided to end the year 2016 as well as begin the year 2017 in utter isolation and hence decided to travel to Kolkata and visit the Sundarban forests.Browsing through the Internet came across "SUNDARBAN CHALO" tour group and rang them up confirming my reservation for the 3 days/2 nights Sundarbans tour after payment of Rs 7000 through a Neft bank transaction.I had to pay a higher rate compared to the normal Rs 5500/Person as my accommodation at the resort would be a entire private room to myself rather than the normal shared rooms per couple or two tourists. Next booked my train tickets on the "Gitanjali Express" managing a "R.A.C" reservation for the departure date on Wednesday(28-12-2016) from Mumbai and a confirmed reservation for departure from Kolkata on Tuesday(3-1-2017) back to Mumbai.
At 2100 hrs on Tuesday(27-12-2016) received the"R.A.C" confirmation for "S12 Seat 47" by phone messenger.In India railway tickets have to be booked well in advance to avoid disappointments or avoiding premium payments on "Tatkal Tickets(Tickets sold a day in advance)".
DEPARTURE MUMBAI(Wednesday(28-12-2016) :- Left my house early as usual boarding a taxi to Dadar railway station(West) and walking up the over-bridge onto the platform.Train was punctual at 0615 hrs and boarded S12 compartment to find another passenger on the same seat !
Travel Companion"God is a Gamer" by Ravi.Subramanian.
This is the definition of "R.A.C" where two passengers share two seats for the night without a "Sleeper berth". Was later told by the T/C to use the upper Berth No 48 for sleeping and was thankful for a decent nights travel on the "Second Class sleeper" accommodation.For the first time during train travel in India came across "Women T/C's" and realized that many male bastion's of employment are gradually in competition with the women work-force akin to my own shipping profession.The compartment was crowded with a few other "R.A.C" and waiting list passengers .Remember the infamous controversial phrase of Intellectual former Congress M.P Mr Shashi.Tharoor describing economic(Cheapest) airfare travel in India.Quote "Indians travel Cattle-Class".
Our Compartment packed to capacity.
I wonder what would be Mr Shashi.Tharoor's phrase for "Second Class R.A.C " train travel travel in India ? As usual whiled away my travel time reading "God is a Gamer" by Indian working class Banker author Mr Ravi.Subramanian. Got to understand the "BITCOIN" monetary system of the "INTERNET"through the novel, A very relevant topic in the days of "Demontization/Remonetization" of the Indian rupee put into effect on Tuesday(8-11-2016) by our Prime Minister Shri Narendra.Modi. A overnight diktat that shocked the Nation creating a political furor in certain States of India besides a rush for exchange and renewal of currency at the banks all over India.Will "BITCOINS" be the future safe house for "Black Money" hoarders in India in the near future ? Time will tell. Couldn't sleep the entire night as i was almost shivering due to cold with just a sweater as thermal protection.Formally got up at daybreak and made my way to the washbasin and in the process dodging a few passengers sleeping on the compartment floor .After a wash and later a cup of tea got ready to alight at Kolkata station.A couple of beautiful Eunuchs entered our compartment and as usual collected a few rupees from some of the passengers.
At "New Market". Crowded in festive decor.
Arrival Kolkota( Thursday 29-12-2016) :- At 1245 hrs our train touched Howrah station and after alighting the train it was a long walk to the common bus station situated near the Howrah Bridge at the beginning of the train station complex.After a few inquiries boarded the "Park Street(Mother Teresa Sarani Marg)" bus and after a short drive through congested streets of Kolkata reached Park Street.On alighting at Park Street made inquiries and was directed to Kyd Street which was parallel to Park Street from the main Park Metro station road.After a long straight walk finally reached my destination "Pushpak International Hotel" situated on 10 Kyd Street.Had booked a dormitory bed costing Rs 418 through "Travelguru" website and was relieved to find a excellent boarding school style A/C dormitory on the ground floor of this small 3 storey hotel.Was allotted "Bed N0 25" and quickly made my way to the common toilet/bathroom which amazingly had "Hot water",excellent for the cost of the dormitory beds.Readers familiar with my tour blogs should by now know that most of the times i live in embarrassingly cheap motels,hostels or hotels since i travel solo and a eternal bachelor by choice.
Inside the landmark "Fairlawn Hotel Pvt Ltd".
After a hot Jacuzzi style bath got dressed and headed into the crowded Mirza Ghalib Street(Free School Street) running parallel to the hotel and the road that links plush Park Street,the backpackers Sudder Street and finally terminating at New Market.The entire narrow road was crowded with traffic and people.While walking towards my hotel on Kyd Street noticed a small restaurant advertising Bengali and Parsi food and decided to visit the same for my "Bonny(Slang in Hindi for First) lunch" in Kolkata, Calcutta along with Madras was once a second home to me during the shipping era of the 1980's/90's when the ships i was employed on touched these classic Indian ports.
"Hand Rickshaw Wallah's" of Kolkata.
The details of some of those Port stays now a distant memory in the 21st century are the stuff of a "Ripley's believe it or not" facts ! "Work Hard in the ship's engine room and do not waste a single day's port stay" was my mantra of the "Shipping era years" and the secret of my physical fitness in 2016 ! Lunch was a simple "Katla fish curry/rice" costing only Rs 80 at the "Mancherji's" restaurant run by a Bengali lady married to a Parsi and hence the cosmopolitan "Bengali/Parsi food" in this small restaurant.Had a discussion with Mrs Mancherji who managed and owned the restaurant which also distributed lunch boxes to offices in Kolkata.
A must do in Kolkata :- Sip tea from a clay cup.
The simple Bengali style Katla fish /Rice was delicious and i requested her to divulge her recipe so that the same style "Bengal lake fish" could be cooked by house-keeper Sabina,Dias in Mumbai.Bengali fish is cooked in a different method compared to Mangalorean and Goan cooking and here was a opportunity to learn the recipe of cooking fish in mustard oil rather than coconut ,groundnut or olive oil.After lunch walked towards New Market (Hogg Market) which was packed with shoppers and on the way came across the iconic "Fairlawn Hotel Pvt Ltd" situated at the junction of Sudder Street.Had read about this iconic Calcutta now Kolkata landmark hotel and hence decided to visit the hotel.
Entrance to NEW MARKET(Sir Stuart Hogg market)
This hotel is a 200 year old building that has housed and still accommodates leading luminaries of the theatre , movies and literary world as well as common guests. A guest could be rubbing shoulder's with Dominique.Lapierre who resided in this hotel during his stays in Kolkata .He is renowned for his 1985 Calcutta based novel titled "City of Joy" which was later made into a film of the same name and also gave Calcutta its famous nickname "City of Joy".Hindi actor Shashi.Kapoor would always stay in this hotel and his in-laws the famous Shakespearean Drama troupe ,the Kendalls ,were almost permanent residents of this hotel. Observed mostly Caucasian tourists in the garden restaurant of this small bungalow style hotel which was decorated for the Christmas/New Year festivities.
Giant Christmas tree with "Spider-man".
The cost of a single room was Rs 3,830/day which was reasonable if shared by a couple or two tourists but definitely not for a "Solo" adventurer living on a backpacker's tour budget.Just outside the hotel were a few "Hand Rickshaw Wallah's" with whom i had a talk and they were complaining of being the major victims of the ongoing "Demonetization " process.The classic unforgettable 1953 Hindi film "Do Bigha Zamin" was partially based on the life of the average Rickshaw Wallah and Calcutta's feudal Zamindar system of that era. Finally reached New Market vicinity and had my "Bonny Kolkata Chai(Tea)" served in a cute throw-away clay cup.Time seems to have stood still in the New Market,Sudder Street and Mirza Ghalib street(Free School Street) of Kolkata with the only recent change being the monetary demonetization new currency of doing business.Came across a tall Christmas tree with a giant size Santa Claus sleigh in front of it and a cut-out of Spider-man on top of the tree.On inquiries was told that this Christmas tree was financed and sponsored by "Shreeram Arcade" the largest department store in the vicinity.
Vintage "Gully Carrom" in a by-lane of New Market
Something different and also realized that Christmas and New Year was now also a traditional cosmopolitan marketing festival . Entered New Market and was greeted with the sight of Christmas /New Decorations on sale.Visited the famous "Nahoum & Sons(Est 1902)" confectionery shop known for its Christmas cakes and crowded with shoppers.Next visited the live-stock section and got a on the spot study of the 5-star livestock sales and packaging with a employee of "Mayfair hotel" purchasing slaughtered turkeys for the New Year festivities.The cost of fresh dressed turkeys was Rs 450/Kg and the hotel had purchased 5 large turkeys from the market.
"Christmas Crib" at Allen Park on Park Street.
In Mumbai my only outdoors daily job is food marketing and hence i am tuned to the average daily prices of commodities and meat/fish products.Strolling in the outdoors section of New Market came across the "Pet Shop" section situated inside a decrepit building which was pathetic and a torture to the few birds being sold as pets.The entire "Pet Shop" section of New Market has disappeared after the ban on selling of exotic local birds , mostly Indian parakeets.After ages saw young men playing the game of "Carrom" ,once very popular in the narrow lanes of Mumbai.They were standing and playing the game rather than sitting as we normally played in Mumbai.
Park Street decor with Kolkata's tallest building visible.
Nostalgic memories of a by-gone era of "Gully Carrom" revived in Kolkata. Headed back along Mirza Ghalib Road towards my hotel and rang up "Sundarban Chalo Tours" inquiring about the exact location of the pick-up-point situated outside their office.Luckily their office at 9.Chowringhee lane was just a few minutes walking distance from my hotel .In the evening walked along Park Street decorated for the Christmas and New Year festivities.Park Street(Mother Teresa Sarani Marg)" is definitely the best decorated street in entire India during the year end festivities akin to major City's of the Western and First world Country's.
A/C Dormitory accommodation in "PUSHPAK HOTEL".
Visited Allen Park which organizes various functions during the Christmas/New Year. .Dinner was "Hilsa fish curry/Chapatti's" at "Mancherji's" costing Rs 65 only.The cost of living in Kolkata is definitely the cheapest among all the major Metropolitan city's of India.After dinner walked the short distance to my hotel and made myself comfortable on my bed. A very well maintained dormitory on par with the best hostels that i have stayed in Europe and Asian city's. "Pushpak International hotel" was the first hotel to start the "A/C Dormitory system" in Kolkata and this was my "Bonny Dormitory" stay in Kolkata city having previously always stayed on ship's or company accommodation.Reserved a booking for my return stay in Kolkata on the 1st and 2nd of January 2017 @ Rs 400/day.As usual sleep eluded me and woke up at dawn.After the normal toilet procedures and a steaming hot water bath dressed and got ready for the much anticipated Sundarban Mangrove forest tour.
"SUNDARBAN CHALO" TOUR :- Stay at Pakhirala village & boat safari of Sajnekali,Sudhanyakali & Dobanki .
SUNDARBANS :- The Sundarban forests comprising of Southern Bangladesh and a part of the Indian State of West Bengal is a vast delta on the Bay of Bengal formed by the confluence of the Ganges,Padma,Brahmaputra and Meghna rivers..The forest Delta is the largest block of tidal halophytic mangrove forest in the World approximately 10,000 Square kilometers in area of which approx 6000 Sq Km is in Bangladesh and the rest in India in the State of Bengal.It became a UNESCO World heritage site in 1997.The Sundarbans has a complex network of tidal waterways,mud-flats and small islands of salt tolerant mangrove forests.There are a total of 52 Islands in the Sundarban Delta archipelago.The interconnected waterways makes almost all the islands accessible by boat but entering the dense mangrove forests is a herculean task.The Indian portion of the forest is estimated to be just 19% while Bangladesh has 81% with Khulna in Bangladesh being a major tourist locale for Tiger spotting on the Bangladesh side of the forests.In Bangladesh walking safari's are possible while in India its only possible viewing wildlife from a launch.The Sundarban mangroves on the coast forms the sea barrier of this vast delta and is the World's largest mangrove system having a area of 20,400 Sq Kms. India has approximately 9,630 Sq Kms of the Mangrove forests of which 5,400 Sq Kms known as "24 Parganas" has been used for agriculture and human habitation with Gosaba village being the last human habituated island on the Indian side of the mangrove forests.The dominant vegetation is the Sundri or Sundari trees from which it is presumed that the Sundarbans derived its name.In Summer petals of the Genwa Bejewel flower along with the red blooms of the Kankala and yellow flowers of the Khalsi gives this unique mangrove forests a brilliant array of colours. In February honey collectors from the villages are allowed to venture into the Sundarban mangroves to collect honey of which the honey from the Khalsi flower is considered the best in quality.It is during the honey collecting month of February that "Man-Eating" cases occur and every year approximately 30 people are killed by tigers and hence the reason for the Sundarban tigers being tagged as "Man-Eater Tigers". As per 2014 census there are a approximately 73 tigers in the Sundarbans.The best months for visiting the Sundarban tiger reserve is between November and February.
SUNDARBAN CHALO" GROUP TOUR TO THE TIGER RESERVE. A PICTORIAL ESSAY OF THE ENTIRE 3 DAYS /2 NIGHTS TOUR OF SUNDARBANS.
Boarding the Mini Van at 9 Chowringhee Lane for the start of "SUNDARBAN CHALO" group tour.
FRIDAY (30-12-2016) DAY 1 OF THE TOUR :
At 0730 hrs was the "Bonny(Hindi slang for First) tourist" at the "Sundarban Chalo office" situated inside the premises of "Garib Nawaz hotel"at 0730 hrs and gradually the other tourists arrived.We were a total of 11 tourists, all individual families except me .A Caucasian family was to my surprise a Diplomat's family belonging to the Dutch Embassy in Delhi.We all finally boarded our large "Force Mini van" with me seated next to the driver and the three other families in different rows.Our destination was Godhkali which is approximately 106 Kms from Kolkata.It was a pleasant journey with a breakfast of sandwiches on the van.Driver Amit.Roy explained us the various landmarks along the way.After leaving main Kolkata city it was a drive over flyover's with a view of modern Kolkata expanding in the suburbs away from the centre of Park Street(Mother Teresa Sarani Marg)".As we drove further from Kolkata got a glimpse of the rural countryside having barren harvested paddy fields and some ponds.More than chickens it was ducks that were visible along the Countryside villages
CANNING :- All set to welcome 2017.A very congested town with narrow roads.
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At approximately 1045 hrs we reached Canning which is the last railway junction for travelers travelling to Sundarbans by train from Kolkata.
Canning named after Governor General of India Lord Canning( 1856-1858) is a very busy congested town and is the gateway to the Sundarbans situated on the South bank of the Matla river and hence the major supply of fish to Kolkata. We faced traffic problems through the narrow road in the city finally crossing the Malta bridge over the river Malta.
Crossing the "Matla Bridge" over River Matla on way to Godhkali.
Cannin is approximately 29 Kms from Godhkali port and after crossing the Malta bridge into Basanto town it was a smooth drive along the Highway to Godhkali port.On the way we passed Sonakhali bridge with Sonakhali jetty being another entry point to the Sundaqrbans by boat .Finally at 1145 hrs we were at Godhkali port which was packed with tourists and locals .After ages i saw travellers travelling on the roof of a mini van.
GODHKALI PORT:- Locals travelling to Canning. @ Rs 20/person.
We were a total of 11 tourists and on arrival at Godhkali Port had to wait for the other batch of tourists to arrive by car.Finally the other batch arrived consisting of 6 tourists and we boarded the private "Sundarban Chalo" launch.
"SUNDERBAN CHALO" Tour group boarding the launch at Godhkali port.
We were a total of 17 tourists who boarded the "Sundarban Chalo" launch.The jetty was crowded with tourists boarding different boats heading towards Gosaba island which is the last inhabited village in the Sunderban Manfrove reserve.At 1230 hrs our launch finally left the jetty at "High Tide" and it was a pleasant ride towards Gosaba. Mr Samrat.Karmarkar the co-owner of "Sundarban Chalo" tours introduced himself to us and explained us the itinerary.We would be sailing to our resort "Gomor Two Star Village resort" situated at Pakhiralay which was also accessible by road from Gosaba island just 7 Kms away from Godhkali jetty by boat.The road route from Gosaba to Pakhiralay is bad and hence the launch rote is preferred.After touching Gosaba jetty on the opposite side of Godhkali port where a employee alighted we next stopped at a "Water Bunker Jetty" to bunker water meant for cooking food in the hotel resort.
Bunkering fresh water for cooking purposes.
The entire Sundarbans region has saline water and hence its one of the most difficult regions for survival in India.In recent years the villagers living on Gosaba island are provided with piped fresh water from the mainland.This water is not sufficient for the numerous resorts on the island and the tourists visiting the Sundarbans. Mineral bottled water is served for drinking purposes at the various resorts and this bunkered water is utilized for cooking purposes.As we sailed along the broad river got my first view of the fenced tiger reserve of the buffer zone of Sundarban tiger reserve.
SUNDARBAN TIGER RESERVE NYLON NET FENCING :- Seen from launch.
The Tiger reserve is fenced and most of the land seemed submerged in water with a dense mangrove forest covering the entire landscape barring the rivulets that ran through the numerous small islands.For the first time in my life spotted the Crab eating Macaque of this unique mangrove forest system.Mr Samrat .Karmarkar explained us the various phases of our boat ride and suddenly spotted a ship travelling towards us on the broad river.
Ship heading to KOLKATA PORT :-Shipping lane between Bangladesh ports and Kolkata.
As we gradually sailed along the Bidyadhari river which is a tributary of the main Matla river a few small ocean sailing ships passed us reminding me of the Suez Canal transit during employment on ships.Mr Samrat.Karmarkar explained us the purpose of these ships that traded in "Fly Ash" exported from India to Bangladesh.These ships loaded "Fly Ash" in Kolkata and after unloading in a Bangladesh port returned back on ballast to reload and hence a chain system of sea transport. Ironically the last ocean sailing vessel "M.V.Vinta" that i sailed on in 1998 as 2nd Engineer had a entire crew of Bangladesh nationals barring a few Indians.The survival techniques we used to prevent this junk vessel from sinking and making the journey safely to Port could be a blockbuster novel.Now you know the reason i took up backpacker adventure solo tours post voluntary retirement from the Shipping Industry. Yes, i missed some of the Adrenalin junkie sea voyages.
Reinforced Embankments(Dykes) :- Villages on Gosaba island protected from flooding. ."CYCLONE SIDR 2007" with wind speeds of 220-250 Km/Hr caused saline water to enter into these fields at high tide destroying the fertility of the land. It took these villages in Gosaba about 2-3 years to make the paddy fields fertile and regrow crops.Since then these Dykes have been strengthened all over the sea facing coast.
Local Sundarban Gosaba village non-mechanized fishing canoe.
Notice the dense Mangrove forests .
Alighting our launch at Pakharala village jetty on Gosaba Island..
Finally at 1415 hrs we touched land at Pakharala village jetty.It was a pleasant one hour forty five minutes boat journey from Godhkali Port jetty to Pakharala village.
Pakharala village Embankment :- Notice the low tide and ducks on the river bed.
It was a short walk from the boat Jetty along the embankment to our resort.It was low tide and the feeling of being in a authentic Indian village was indescribable.
GOMOR TWO STAR VILLAGE RESORT :- Our residence at Pakharala village in Sundarbans.
On entering Gomor village resort which had small cottage houses Samrat allotted us our respective cottage rooms. Each cottage had two separate attached bath/single rooms with one room accommodating a maximum of 4 tourists.As i was single had paid Rs 7000 for a private room and was allotted a room in the first cottage.The room was palatial in comparison to my dormitory accommodation in Kolkata,definitely worth the premium price.
"GOMOR TWO STAR VILLAGE RESORT" in Pakharala village :- Outside my cottage room.
Excellent and palatial authentic village style cottages.After a brief rest in my cottage room went to the main dining hall of the resort for lunch.It was a excellent late "Buffet Lunch" at 1500hrs consisting of fish curry,rice,fried brinjals,vegetable bhaji and a dessert of Rasgolla prepared in typical Bengali cuisine.After lunch took a walk along the embankment awed by the pure unpolluted village life and living.Observed numerous Babbler birds and herons in the vicinity besides the odd common Kingfisher.
Harvested paddy fields of Pakharala village in Gosaba.
The hay of the harvested paddy is used for cattle feed and house roofing.
Pakhirala Village :- View of the Embankment(Dyke) that is also the village road .
There are 4 Tidal changes in 24 hrs in the Sundarbans and this photo shows the "LOW TIDE" topography of our village resort at 1600 hrs..During low tide the water recedes and hence the mud- lands are visible .At "High Tide" the water rises by 6 to 10 feet and this entire mud-flat is submerged in water upto a few feet below the embankment(Dyke). The Dyke pathway is used as a road on which skilled villagers ride motorcycles and cycles.
AQUATIC BIRD-WATCHING :- Tourist launches near the coast for viewing migratory aquatic birds.
At approximately 1615 hrs we departed from our lodge by our motor launch and sailed along the coastline towards Jatirampur village for bird-watching (Twitching).The number of boats in the vicinity resembles jeep cars in a national park. In the Sundarbans on the Indian side all Wild-life and Aquatic bird sightings and tours are conducted on motor launches or small canoes but never through forest paths or treks through the forest.Some of the main species of birds in the National Park are the Ocean open bill stork,Greater Adjutant Stork,Black Caped Kingfisher,Red whiskered Bulbul,Egrets,Fishing eagle,Common Flame back woodpecker and Babbler,
The Mud flat beach along Jatirampur village on Gosaba Island.
BIRD WATCHING BOAT SAFARI :- Hoping to spot some aquatic birds.
Our launch as well as other tourist launches and small boats parked alongside the mud flats beach for sighting birds. Besides the common heron didn't spot any exotic bird.In our resort complex saw more birds than during this launch safari.With these many launches in the vicinity of the mud beach no sane bird would be modeling for the photographers ! Honestly the Sundarban's should be visited for its unique topography and boat cruises.Bird watching of rare migratory aquatic birds with this much disturbance is definitely a 1:100 chance.
Back to Pakharala after the bird watching launch safari.
Finally we headed back to our resort jetty at dusk finally reaching "Gomor Resort" at approximately 1715 hrs It gets total dark by about 1730 hrs .Due to the tides alighting and boarding the launch was a bit risky, especially for the ladies and young kids.
Banbibi Dance :- Local cultural dance at the resort dining hall.
In the night we 17 tourists were entertained with a musical programme. Banbibi (Bengali: বনবিবি, the lady of the forest), also Bandevi, Bandurga and Byaghradevi is a guardian spirit of the forests venerated by both the Hindu and the Muslim residents of the Sundarbans. She is called upon mostly by the honey-collectors and the woodcutters before entering the forest for protection against the attacks from the tigers. It is believed that the demon king, Dakkhin Rai (the lord of the south), an arch-enemy of Banbibi actually appears in the disguise of a tiger and attacks human beings.(Ref:- Wikipedia).
BONFIRE :- A bonfire in the cold night after the Banbibi dance performance.
After the "Banbibi" dance performance we all sat in a circle around a bonfire.Got to know my fellow tourists and had interesting conversation with young Dr Sudip.Roy touring with his parents.After the bonfire it was a tasty buffet dinner consisting of fish,chapatti's,fried Bengali potato chips and vegetables.End to a hectic day of travel from Kolkata into the Sundarban island of Gosaba. Headed back to my palatial cosy room well stacked with blankets and had the first 4-5 hrs sleep of my entire tour since departure from Mumbai. SATURDAY(31-12-2016) DAY 2 OF SUNDERBAN TOUR
TIDAL VILLAGE FISHING :-Fisherman collecting entangled fish from the fishing net.
After waking up at 0430 hrs to the crowing of the village cock collected a bucket of hot water from the open-air hot water utensil being fired by the resort local staff. The resort did not have hot water geysers and hence hot water was provided only once a day every morning.After the bath and normal toilet routines headed out of the resort onto the embankment. A thick mist covered the entire water surface with visibility reduced to a few meters.Observed a fisherman collecting fish entangled in the net that was strewn on bamboo states parallel to the embankment at the lowest level of the "Low Tide Water Mark"..This net is set at "High Tide" once the water reaches the embankment and hence the fish get entangled as the tide gradually recedes finally reaching its lowest level.Observed him collecting small tiny fish and this tough manual fishing technique yields fish sufficient for personal consumption or fetches a pittiance when sold to the locals. Life is really tough, both physically and economically for the average Gosaba resident.
Bird-watching(Twitching) :- Spotted this common kingfisher at a fish pond.Net used for pond protection.
After ages i was in a authentic village and observed normal village life with ducks being let off from their pens.On being let off from the pens these gaggle of ducks quickly headed towards the low tide mud flats in search of fish entangled in the fishing net. The fisherman shooed them away, something not seen in a normal ordinary Indian village.Spotted this Kingfisher awaiting its morning breakfast from this fish pond.
"SELFIE" :- A local village dog that became my best friend.
Strangely one of the village mongrel dogs treated me as if i was its long lost owner. This dog which seemed to be a veteran of numerous dog fights as are most male village dogs was licking and literally hugging me.Clicked a "Selfie" with it.Strange but true that i do have a telepathic touch with birds and animals..Pets and animals are attracted towards me.Among my numerous ambitions during my teenage years one was definitely of being a "Horse Trainer" and seems i would have done well if life didn't have other plans for me.
LOW TIDE GANGWAY AND STEPS :- Boarding our launch at "Low Tide" for the day's safari cruise.
Today was to be a entire day of "SAFARI CRUISING" along the Sunderban Mangrove forests with breakfast and lunch served on the boat.At 0745 hrs we boarded our launch which was way below the embankment as seen in the photograph.A tourist has to be cautious while boarding a launch or boat at extreme "Low Tide" in the Sundarbans. After boarding the launch we were met by our guide Mr Sujit.Raptan and he explained us the days cruise programme. We were to visit 3 Watch towers 1)Sajnekhali Watchtower 2) Sudhanyakhali Watchtower and 3) Do Banki Watchtower.
Arrival at "Sajnekhali wildlife sanctuary"
While our boat cruised along the river observed "Buoys" along the river which were placed as identification marks for fishing boats. .It was a very short cruise from our resort at Pakharala to Sajnekhali tiger reserve.
Rare endangered "River Terrapin" at Sajnekhali Turtle breeding pond":- Turtle seen with neck out of the water.
Sajnekhali is 362 Sq Km in size situated in the northern part of the Sundarban Tiger reserve sanctuary..Consists of swamps,mangrove forests and scrub and set up as a wildlife sanctuary in 1976. Sajnekhali is the most popular wildlife sanctuary at it is closest to most of the resorts on Gosaba island and hence easily accessible by boat.
Our guide Mr Sujit.Raptan explaining Sajnekhali wildlife sanctuary.Sighting of the "Sundarban Bengal Tiger" by common tourist safari boats is a 1 :100 chance. In a month of conducting daily guided tours before our tour guide Mr Sujit.Raptan has spotted the tiger only twice. Its akin to hitting the lottery ticket number.
Sajnekhali sanctuary is the head office of the forest department and guide Mr Sujit.Raptan had to obtain permission for our tour group to visit the Sundarban tiger reserve as do all other tour groups. The Watchtower complex has a "Mangrove Interpretation Centre",a "Banbibi Temple" , a "Turtle breeding pond" and a "Crocodile pond".The West Bengal tourism lodge is also situated inside the Sajnekhali complex.Wildlife can only be observed from the "WATCHTOWER" and the fenced enclosed complex. Tourists cannot enter the forest reserve.Its akin to being in a zoo where the tiger is the main visitor hoping to give us caged human tourists a glimpse of its splendour.
View from the top of "SAJNEKHALI WATCHTOWER".
This is the large artificial pond in the sanctuary where wild animals including the tiger visit to quench their thirst.The Watchtower has a capacity to hold approximately 20 people and was packed akin to a queue system. As it was the year end festivity the sanctuary was crowded with tourists and resembled a zoo.We could not spot a Chital deer let alone the 1 :100 odds tiger sighting ! The Mangrove forests in the vicinity of the watchtower has been artificially cleared in patches so tourists can get a glimpse of wild life in the vicinity.
"BANBIBI TEMPLE" in Sajnekhali Watchtower complex.
Banbibi (Bengali: বনবিবি, the lady of the forest), also Bandevi, Bandurga and Byaghradevi is a guardian spirit of the forests venerated by both the Hindu and the Muslim residents of the Sundarbans. She is called upon mostly by the honey-collectors and the woodcutters before entering the forest for protection against the attacks from the tigers. It is believed that the demon king, Dakkhin Rai (the lord of the south), an arch-enemy of Banbibi actually appears in the disguise of a tiger and attacks human beings.(Ref:- Wikipedia).
"Sundarban Chalo " tour group outside "Mangrove Interpretation centre" in Sajnekhali Watchtower Complex.
We visited the "Mangrove Interpretation Centre" which had photographs documenting the Sundarban Mangroce ecosystem..A few hours are required at this centre for wild-life conservationists to study and understand the Sundarbans.We just rushed through the exhibits as do all other tour groups.
"PNEUMATOPHORES of the Mangrove trees in Sajnekhali Watchtower complex.
In Sajnekhali Watchtower complex tourists enter from one end of the tiger sanctuary on launches and exit on launches from the other end.The walk-through is along a entire fenced complex .Here we passed alongside the residential complex of the forest staff which had large mangrove trees depicting the "PNEUMATAPHORE" roots system.These are long small thick straw like breathing roots that rise above the soil and are as pointed and tough as nails.Villagers venturing into the Sundarban mangroves have to avoid these pointed breathing roots and many animals of these forests get injured stepping onto these protruding Pneumataphores.
Back to board our cruise launch from the exit of Sajnekhali Complex.
Continuation of our Sunderban cruise from Sajnekhali Tiger reserve complex.
Breakfast was at 0930 after departure from Sajnekhali consisting of Lichi(Bengali name for puri) and bhaji with tea. After decades i was relishing a breakfast while cruising on a boat.Unlike the sea the river is calm and without any ripples or swell. Hence there is no rolling or pitching and its akin to being on one of the World's plushest luxury cruise liners that are as firm as land.This is the major attraction of cruising on the Sundarban channels and rivulets.No chance of suffering from "SEA SICKNESS".We passed along "Pirkhali-2" creek that has on occasions been a spot where the odd tiger has been seen crossing a rivulet or just whizzing away in the dense mangroves.Hence all launch tourists are on maximum alert to be the lucky one fro "Bragging Rights" of seeing the 1 :100 elusive Sundarban tiger.Had a prized bird sighting when guide Sujit showed us the rare "Brown Winged Kingfisher" sitting on a branch in the dense mangrove forest.There are 6 different species of Kingfishers in the Sundarban Mangrove eco-system and the "Brown Winged Kingfisher" is one of the rarest.Compensation for not sighting the glimpse of the Royal Bengal tiger.Villagers are allowed to enter certain parts of the Sundarban forests for homey extraction only during the month of February.
"Crab/Fish Eating Macaque" of the Sunderban Manfrove forests:- Testing the coast water for crabs ?
On nearing the "Sudhanyakhali Camp" got my first glimpse of the "Crab eating Macaque" of the Sundarbans Mangrove eco-system.This Macaque in the photograph was busy scurrying the waters for small fiddler crabs or fish least bothered about the commotion of tourists and launches in the vicinity.
Entrance to Sudhanyakhali Camp from boats & launches.
At 0950 hrs we reached Sudhankhali Camp and had to walk along the fenced forest park akin to Sajnekhali forest sanctuary.Came across a few Crab eating monkeys that were more interested in snatching food from tourists rather than scavenging the mud coast for crabs and fish.Came across a junk discarded Catamaran named "Tiger" that was once the main speed boat of the forest department but discarded due to its exorbitant maintenance costs. It was now a rotting museum showpiece as Catamarans are definitely a rare sight in Indian ports let alone in the secluded remote Sundarban mangrove forests.
Sudhanyakhali Camp forest :- Display of various different types of Mangrove plants for tourists & Botanists.
As we walked along the barricaded path of Sudhankhali camp came across this plantation of different varieties of plants grown for the benefit of explaining the mangrove forest system to Botanists and tourists.
Sudhanyakhali Camp forest :- View of the Artificial fresh water pond and cleared forest area.
Climbed the stairs to the Watchtower where a beautiful "Bird's eye view" of the forest was visible.The forest department had cleared a large part of the forest in the vicinity of the artificial fresh water pong so that tourists could get a glimpse of the wild-life and if lucky the odd tiger.Spotted 2 of the largest monitor lizards i have seen in my wild-life expeditions basking on the bank of the fresh water lake.
Sudhanyakhali Camp forest :- View of the mud creek separating the dense forests from the watch tower
It was low tide and hence we got a chance to view the island creek of the Sudhyanyakhali camp forest.Excellent place to spot the elusive Bengal tiger as it crosses the creek on way to the fresh water pond.Bengal Tigers normally are accustomed to drinking the saline water of the mangrove forests and its only in recent years that artificial fresh water ponds have been built for the forest animals.
Departure Sudhanyakhali Camp forest by launches and boats.
At approximately 1030 hrs we finally departed from Sudhanyakhali camp.There was a queue system for various tour groups to board their respective launches.Very well managed without any chaos or rush to board a launch.
Tourist launch traffic on the Sundarban Mangrove forest waterways and creeks.
As we chugged along the river got into a conversations with co-tourists young 27 year old Doctor Mr Sudip.Roy who had a M.S in General Surgery and Mr Santanu.Banerjee a veteran Deputy Superintendent of Customs in Kolkata.Got to understand the plight of snake bites and tiger attack victims from Dr Sudip.Roy who has personally seen or treated some of the victims.in his hospital in Kolkata. Tigers attack mostly on the neck or shoulders and usually the victims spinal chord is affected.Most of the attacks are fatal.Regarding snakes it seems the "Banded Krait" is the deadliest venomous snake in the Sundarbans .Treatment to poisonous snake bites is lengthy and torturous if the victim survives which they usually do compared to a tiger attack.A snake bite victim does not die immediately as normally shown in Hindi films and now thanks to "Anti Venom" medication most poisonous snake bites are curable although the scars are life long. in some cases.On all my "Solo Tours" i have never ever felt lonely or bored and always made new acquaintances and also learned new cultures and as a confirmed "Foodie" tasted new cuisines.
Tidal submergence of the Sunderban mangrove forests.
As we sailed along it was a real luxury cruise along the waterways as we passed along numerous creeks and got to actually understand the topography of mangrove vegetation .
PANCHMUKHI POINT :- A Confluence of 5 rivers in Sunderbans mangrove forests.
At approximately 1145 hrs we reached "Panchmukhi Point " where the river resembled a Ocean.Its called "Panchmukhi" as its the meeting place of 5 different rivers .The rivers Icchamati,Durgaduyani,Gumor,Shukna and Banabibidharani meet at this point and hence the name "Panchmukhi". Our resort lodge "Gomor two star village resort" has been named after the Gumor river.
Spotted a large crocodile on the mud bank seen in the distant opposite to "Dobanki" tiger reserve.
As our launch approached "Dobanki" tiger reserve we spotted the largest man-eater crocodile approximately 13 feet long basking on the mud bank on the opposite side of Dobanki tiger reserve.Crocodile attacks are not uncommon in the Sundarbans and local villagers venturing into these dense impenetrable mangroves for occasional wood-cutting or honey collecting have to keep a watch on crocodiles.
"DOBANKI" tiger reserve :- Notice the fenced reserve and tourist Walk-through passage.
Finally we reached our last tiger reserve tour of the day ,"Dobanki". Reminded me of the "Gateway of India" launch rides in Mumbai where a convoy of tourist launches were queued for disembarking tourists.At approximately 1230 hrs our launch banked near the jetty and we entered Dobanki tiger reserve through the narrow fenced passage.Spotted numerous small Red crabs that have only one large claw unlike the normal crabs and screw shells(Telescopic Shells) on the mudflats .
View of the Mangrove forests and the artificial water pond from "DOBANKI WATCHTOWER".
Dobanki watchtower was established in 2003 by the West Bengal Government and is one of the likeliest places to view the elusive Bengal tiger.A chance of seeing the tiger quenching its thirst at the large sweet water pond. We didn't spot a tiger but spotted a dead chital deer through the binoculars which i mistook to be a tiger.Later it was confirmed to be a "Tiger Kill" and from a distance the markings of the chital deer lying dead on the ground resembled a tiger.At last we had tracked the Royal Bengal tiger of the Sundarbans by at least spotting its kill. The tiger would definitely eat its meal in the night or at some other time .
"DOBANKI 896 METERS CANOPY WALKWAY" through the tiger forest reserve.
From the "Dobanki Watchtower" we had a canopy walk across the forest. The fenced canopy walk is at a height of 20 feet above the forest ground. We got to view a magnificent Chital stag sitting all alone in the distant forest.Besides hoof prints we didn't spot any other herbivores and the canopy was packed with tourists walking in a single file.
Boarding our launch for departure from "DOBANKI TIGER RESERVE".
Finally at the end of the canopy walk we boarded our launch."Dobanki" was our luckiest of the three tiger reserve watch towers that we visited as we got a view of a "Tiger Kill". Also got to view one of the largest man-eater crocodiles of the Sundarbans while approaching the watch tower by launch.Finally at 1230 hrs we departed from Dobanki taking a different passage through the mangrove forests towards our home destination Pakharala village on Gosaba island.
Sailing across the river passing narrow creeks.
Grand "BUFFET LUNCH" on our launch while cruising the Sundarbans tiger reserve.
Authentic Bengali cuisine while sailing on a smooth river.Apologize for being a glutton as i ate to glory akin to a Bengal tiger ravishing its hard earned meal.Lunch was rice/fish curry/dal/fried brinjal's/crab curry and Bhaji.One dish was absent from the menu,guess ? Liquor ! A glass of wine or beer would have added a little extra flavour to our delicious boat cuisine.Observed most of the launch boats tourists having a merry liquor party on board although liquor is officially banned in the tiger reserve.Presume that as it was the last day of 2016 liquor could be consumed on the tour launch boats.
Maximum High tide water mark on the mangrove trees
As we chugged along the river observed many mangrove trees along the river bank having a distinct muddish brown colour watermark akin to a straight line marking .Guide Mr Suji.Raptan explained us the reason for this strange watermark on the mangrove trees which was the maximum high tide level usually seen during the Full Moon.
Broad creeks in the Sundarbans forests.
These creeks can be navigated by small boats to visit the interior of the Tiger reserve forest. Best chances of catching a glimpse of the elusive Bengal tiger is by getting permission to navigate in small boats along these narrow creeks into the deeper parts of the forest.Special permission is required for the same besides the expedition being expensive.
Village boats in the Tiger reserve mangrove forests.
Passed along a village canoe boat in close proximity to the river mud bank.It is these villagers who risk their lives earning their livelihood in the Sundarbans mangrove forests.A tiger can easily swim across the narrow river to the canoe boat besides the river also has crocodiles and the forests poisonous snakes.The village canoe boats can negotiate the tidal creeks unlike the launches.
Sailing across Panchamukhni mangrove forests :- Spotting a King Heron and notice the Pneumatophores.
Sailing across the Panchamukhni -1 forests considered a bird watchers paradise we came across this king Heron, a common species in the Sundarban mangroves. Also spotted a two Jungle fowls and a flame back wood pecker.
Mangrove trees with "STILT ROOTS".
The "Stilt roots" are used for stability and anchorage in these tidal waters.
Tourists on Canoe boats.
Mr and Mrs Allard.Wagemaker opening Champagne.
Finally we reached Pakharala at 1700 hrs just before the last total sunset of the year 2016.
As usual there were some new guest arrivals at "Gomor Two Star village resort" and the same "Banbibi" tribal music and dance was organized for the new tourists.This time the dance recital was in the open courtyard just in front of my cottage room in the chill cold night.At approximately 1900 hrs we had a bonfire and later some local Bengali music was played on speakers in the courtyard.
Mr Santanu .Banerjee & Mrs Wagemaker on the Cake.
Dutch Diplomat Mr Allard.Wagemaker and his wife popped open a champagne bottle and each of us were given a toast for the New Year.Later Mr Santanu.Banerjee and Mrs Wagemaker along with the kid tourists in our group cut the cake.Everyone was with a family except me, the eternal "Solo Tourist".Dinner was late at 21 45 hrs. Excellent chicken curry/rice/vegetables/potato chips with papad's. Bengal cuisine at its rustic best.After dinner we all split into our respective accommodation and i was listening to "Michael.Jackson and Konkani songs" on the non-working smartphone in my luxurious cottage room.Later walked along the embankment with my torchlight experiencing total darkness as it was the New moon night.The tide was gradually rising and "NEW YEAR 2017" would be at "HIGH TIDE" in the Sunderbans.
"GOMOR TWO STAR VILLAGE RESORT" awaiting "NEW YEAR 2017
Sunday(1-1-2017) DAY 3 OF SUNDARBANS TOUR : WISHING EVERYONE A HAPPY NEW YEAR-2017 FROM PAKHARALA VILLAGE ON GOSABA ISLAND IN THE SUNDARBAN TIGER RESERVE FORESTS OF INDIA.
"RINGING OUT THE OLD YEAR 2016 AND RINGING IN THE NEW YEAR 2017".
After ages this was a New Year i celebrated in total solitude in my resort room in "GOMOR TWO STAR VILLAGE RESORT" .The most sober welcome of the year since i developed a taste for liquor.There was the sound of fireworks in the vicinity which was definitely from the resorts in Pakharala village. Othewise definitely the quietest New year bringing back memories of lonely ship voyages. With "DEMETIZATION/REMONETIZATION " ushuring the New Year-2017 realized that the "Smart Phone" would be a key player in every Indian's life in 2017.
The first morning of 2017 in Pakharala village covered in pure non-polluted mist.
At daybreak this was the view of the village with visibility reduced to a few meters due to the dense mist. Visibilty across the river was also a few meters making navigation dangerous.Strolled around the village visiting a small village farm house with a pond having geese and a poultry consisting of ducks and chickens.Observed a few cocks tied to stakes and on inquiries found out that "Cock-Fighting" was a popular village sport,This village in Pakharala reminded me of my parents ancestral villages in South India during the early 1970's.Hope Pakharala village in Gosaba doesn't get ruined due to excessive tourism with paddy farms giving way to cottage resorts.Instead the villagers could benefit by having "Home-stays" for tourists in their farmhouses thus earning a decent income as well as contributing to the rice cultivation granary of India.Sadly for me and other co-tourists living comfortable lives with modern gadgets in the city it is easy being a "Arm-Chair agriculturist" than a "Practical Agriculturist".One great improvement in Bengal and especially the Sunderbans is the continuous availability of electricity and i was surprised that load shedding was banished from Bengal.The Calcutta of the 1980's had permanent "Load Shedding" in Kidderpore and other localities of Calcutta that was absent in 2016.Breakfast consisting of "Lichi(puri)/Bhaji was at 0900 hrs .
Subsistence fishing in Pakharala village.
It was "LOW TIDE" and observed a lonely fisherman casting his net along the mud flats.His catch which he showed me was a pittance for the labour involved that would not fetch more than a few rupees in expensive Mumbai. The Sundarban villages have the lowest per-capita income in entire Bengal and this fisherman could be a case study on the hardships faced by the average villager of the Sundarbans .No wonder some of them risk their lives in entering the forest for wood cutting and honey collection .
Village canoe boats beached on the mud flats at low tide.
At approximately 0945 hrs we were taken on a guided tour through Pakharala village.It was a straight walk along the village embankment with a view of the river on one side and the village farm houses and paddy fields on the other side. It was low tide when we left our resort.
Acres of harvested rice fields of Pakharala village.
As we walked along came across this sight that had rice fields stretching almost to the horizon.
The common average village farm in Pakharala..A small backyard potato farm
Above is the view of the typical indian village farm where rice is the prime crop of the village. Bags of rice is stored inside the thatched haystack where the cows are tethered. A small potato farm in front of the house is a subsidiary crop.
Village Boat-building in Sunderbans:- Villager repairing his Canoe.
"SUNDARBAN CHALO" Tour Group with guide:- Most of the total of 17 of us tourists at Pakharala village.
Entering the main small village commune in Pakharala on Gosaba island in Sundarbans.
A Villager re-roofing the house with thatched rice hay.
Typical village system of storing harvested rice in sealed "Rice bags" kept one on top of the other in a rectangular fashion and completely sealed with rice hay akin to a house.
Separating the rice husk from the paddy straws
Got to study the harvesting and processing of rice beginning from harvesting from the field and processing in the village house.
"Boiled Rice" being kept for drying in the house compound to be later sent to the rice mills for removal of husk.
Both my paternal and maternal grandparents were farmers in the villages of Barkur and Mabukala in Udipi District of Mangalore. In 2016 none of my relatives are agriculturists .This village of Pakharala to a certain extent reminded me of my parents villages in the 1960's and 1970's when the entire household to a certain extent was dependent on agriculture.Most Indian villages harvesting rice have almost the same village topography.Will Pakharala village be the same in another generation ? Agriculture can definitely not disappear as a profession otherwise we city dwellers would starve but the methods of cultivation and harvesting might change over the decades as also village life and living.
High Tide fast filling the Sunderban forests of Pakharala village beyond the Embankment(Dyke).
Tidal changes in the Sundarbans are swift and when we left out resort it was "Low Tide" and now while walking back from the village saw the muddy flats being filled with Tidal water gradually submerging these trees.A practical experience of observing and experiencing the unique tidal levels of the Sunderban Mangrove forests.
Co-Tourist Dr Sudip.Roy. :- Made me understand tiger attacks & Snake bites.
We finally made our way back towards our resort with the tide rising rapidly .In the morning during our departure from the resort two canoe boats were resting on the mud flats in low tide beyond the village embankment .These same boats were now seen floating on our return . For the first time saw a ship sailing from Kolkata port to Bangladesh
Sundarban Sea traffic :- Kolkata to Bangladesh.
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Snake swallowing a frog.:- Frog is caught in its mouth and in the process of being swallowed.
As we walked along suddenly one of the tour guests spotted a snake in the process of swallowing a small frog in the mud flats.Have seen snakes swallowing their prey on film and T.V but never in real life.Was lucky to photograph it before it completely swallowed its prey and made a get-away.
End of the "3 days/2 Nights Sundarban Chalo Tour" :- Departure Pakharala village and boarding our launch..
After reaching our resort lunch was in the dining hall and excellent as usual. In just 3 days and 2 nights stay i felt i had lived for ages in this tiny village of Pakharala on Gosaba island.Had purchased a bottle of local village honey costing Rs 300/Kg.Returning to Mumbai without Sundarban honey is akin to visiting Kolkata and not tasting "Rosgoola's".The last of the authentic Indian village as most villages around India are rapidly evolving into small towns with agriculture totally disappearing or innovating into modern villages.
The last view View of the Embankment(Dyke) and Gomor Two Star Resort" at high tide from our launch
Finally away on the launch .
After leaving the Merchant Navy in 2006 this was the first time that i had sailed for more than 5 to 6 hours on a floating vessel.
Village Canoes carting "Ice Blocks" :- Transport in Sundarbans islands is only by canoe boats and launches.
Finally at 1530 hrs we touched the jetty of Godhkali port and this was our van for the journey back to Kolkata.
It was a long drive to Kolkata and finally at 1815 hrs reached our destination .Bid goodbye to my cu-tourists and walked the short distance to "Pushpak International Hotel" .Paid the advance amount of Rs 800 for two days stay and after collected my bag went and occupied my dormitory bed.Back to "Boarding school" at the young age of 56 years ! After a warm bath dressed up and made my way out of the hotel onto "Mirza Ghalib Street" and straight into plush and packed Park Street. As it was the New Year the entire Park street area was a sight to behold with a queue outside some of the famous restaurant like Mocambo and Peter Cat.Made my way to Allen Park which was packed with revelers and definitely the best decorated Park for Christmas and New Year's.
Packed crowd of New Year day revelers at "ALLEN PARK" on Park Street.One of the most beautiful sights on New Year Day.
In "ALLEN PARK" at the bust of Olympian Hockey player Shri Leslie.W.Claudius.As a average sportsman throughout my life with football and hockey being favourite youth sports thought it fitting to pay homage to one of the icons of Indian sports. Also it was the first time in my life that i came across a sportsman's bust or statue in a public park in India which is a privilege normally reserved for politicians.
The large Christmas tree at entrance to "ALLEN PARK".
"PARK STREET(Mother Teresa Sarani Marg)" on New Years Night.The best decorated street in India.
Waiting list for "MOCAMBO" a landmark restaurant on Park Street :- Was in the news for the wrong reasons in September 2016 for denying a Lady customer's driver entrance into the hotel because he was not properly dressed. Sparked a "Racist" uproar on social websites and the media."PARK STREET" is Old World Calcutta now Kolkata.
At the "PARK HOTEL" on Park Street.
At "SOMEPLACE ELSE" the pub/nightclub in Park Hotel.Excellent old world music of the 1960's onward sung by this local group "Plan B" later followed by "DJ KYLE" music.The youth of Mumbai and Kolkata are the same and akin to my ageless Guru Mick.Jagger felt like a teenager at "Someplace Else". Previously on occasional ship visits to the port city it was always "Trinca's"."Something Else" was established in 1994 and a youngster in the Night club network of Kolkata although one of the best in the business. New Year-2017 night was music and a beer at this plush night club..
Monday(2-1-2016) Hotel Pushpak International , Kolkata :- Got up early as usual at the sound of the Muezzin calling for prayers at 0515hrs.The "Madina Mosque" was just on the opposite side of the hotel on Mirza Ghalib street. After my normal toilet routines walked out of Hotel Pushpak International onto Mirza Ghalib street and had a hot matki tea prepared over coals at the tea stall opposite the hotel .No New Year hangovers but sober and tired from the hectic "Sunderban Chalo" tour.
Walked along "Mirza Ghalib Street" towards New Market and came across the largest whole sale chicken market in India. The street was lined with chicken pen's.
Chickens loaded on cycles .A sight not seen in other city's.
Walking along Mirza Ghalib Street across the line of chicken vendors along the footpath stepped into the fish section of New Market.Observed the butchers slicing and packing large fish specimens as shown in the photograph.The skill with which they sliced through the fish and separated the various parts according to its culinary value was a experience in hotel management.Not a ounce of the fish was wasted with even the bones and waste put into a separate basket.
"MADINA MASJID" opposite "Pushpak International Hotel
After touring the meat and fish markets in "New Market Complex" walked back to "Pushpak International hotel" and had a authentic hard core Muslim recipe breakfast at "Islami Yadgar hotel" situated on the ground floor of the building that housed the "Madina Mosque". Breakfast was "Kaleja(liver)/Puri" which tasted delicious but later left me with a bad stomach as i am allergic to pungent food.When i was a decade younger i cherished the authentic 'Kabab's" and road side barbecue's in Mumbai and even Calcutta during my ship visits but with age my stomach seems to have become susceptible to very adventurous street food.Luckily i recovered quickly from the stomach upset and after refreshing myself in the hotel had a orange juice drink at the road-side vendor next to the hotel.Inquired with him about directions to visit "Mother House" and he proved to be a very helpful authentic guide
A view of typical Old World Kolkata on AJC Bose Road which is the location of " MOTHER HOUSE". Thanks to the Orange juice seller near my hotel that i got the right and cheapest method of visiting "MOTHERS HOME" at Ripon Street in Kolkata.Boarded a shared rickshaw a few minutes walking distance from Mirza Ghalib street and alighted at "Lannapakud junction" .The shared Rickshaw bill was a mere Rs 7 .Was surprised at the ordinariness and congestion of Ripon street which was home and headquarters of the "SISTERS OF CHARITY".St Mother Teresa lies entombed in the building housing the "Sisters of Charity" complex.The Ripon street Mosque is the most prominent structure in the vicinity with the "Sisters of Charity" complex a few meters away down the street from the Mosque.
Ordinary entrance to "MISSIONARIES OF CHARITY'S MOTHER HOUSE". Entrance to "Sisters of Charity" complex is free of charge and as it was only 0900 hrs there were just a few pilgrims and visitors.Visting hours are from 0800 hrs to 1200 hrs and later from 1500 hrs to 1800hrs.
"ST MOTHER TERESA TOMB" in "MOTHER HOUSE" in SISTERS OF CHARITY" complex. The "Missionaries of Charity" founded on October 7th 1950 is situated in a very ordinary looking 3 storey building akin to a small school complex. "MOTHER HOUSE" is on the ground floor of the building and there were just a few pilgrims inside the hall housing the enclosed tomb of "St Mother Teresa". Photography is allowed inside "Mother House" but not in any other part of the charity complex including "Mother Teresa Museum" situated in the adjacent chamber next to her tomb.I had the privilege of personally seeing Mother Teresa at the Santa Cruz airport in Mumbai in 1986 when i along with my parents was on my way to board a flight to Cochin for joining a ship.At that time she had won the "Nobel Prize" and i was surprised at her simplicity devoid of "Bodyguards" or "Fans" with just a few nuns in her company. Had personally wished her while my mother just couldn't believe that her prayers of meeting a holy person had been heard.Mum was excessively religious to the verge of religious fanaticism.Here in 2016 i was at the tomb of "Saint Mother Teresa" and realized i had traveled a long distance since last seeing Mother Teresa personally in 1986.Visited the museum and got a glimpse into her life and history. From "Missionaries of Charity's Mother House" visited the small room in the building complex adjacent to "Mother House" where she lived from 1953 to 1997.It was a tiny room in which she worked and slept without the use of a fan. Mother Teresa received 700 awards during her lifetime incuding the Nobel Peace Prize.Photography of this room was prohibited.No one asked me for donations and while living the premises a nun handed me a small prayer photo of Saint Mother Teresa along with religious pendant as are all other visitors and pilgrims.
"SOUTH PARK STREET CEMETERY" Opened:- 1767.Closed :- 1790 . Now a Museum. After visiting "Sisters of Charity Mother House" boarded a shared rickshaw to Park Street. It was a long walk from "Mirza Ghalib Street" corner to "South Park Street cemetery". Entrance to the Cemetery is free and a visitor has to enter his name on the entrance registry as a security precaution. I was the lone visitor at 100 hrs and had read reviews of this cemetery being haunted. Yes i was also in search of a elusive spirit or ghost. After signing the "Visitor registry and entering the huge graveyard complex was astounded by the lavish memorials on view.
Inside "SOUTH PARK CEMETERY" that has 1600 graves or tombs. I was the only visitor in the cemetery accompanied by a young puppy that followed me along my walk through the graveyard path. This Cemetery is also considered haunted by superstitious and "Ghost Believers". \
In "South Park Cemetery" amid the beautiful serene haunted tombs and tomb monuments. This Cemetery doesn't have a single "CROSS" symbol monument or graveyard's with a "CROSS" as seen in Christian cemeteries all over the World. This cemetery is one of the earliest Non-Church cemetery and was the largest cemetery outside of Europe and America in the 18th century. The tombs are a mixture of Gothic and Indo-Saracenic style of architecture. Tollywood (Bengal Film Industry) Film "GOROSTHANEY SABHDAN( Beware in the Cemetery) based on a novel by Satyajit.Ray was filmed in this cemetery.
Unique Tomb design of Major General Charles.Stewart also known as "Hindoo Stuart". One of the unique tombs in the cemetery is the tomb of Charles Stuart a Indophile whose tomb has the dome design and symbols of the Hindu faith.
"ARCHBISHOP HOUSE" on 32 Park Street. From the cemetery walked back South on Park Street and on the way came across the palatial "Archbishop House" .As a Catholic Christian its natural for me to visit sites concerning Christianity or Catholicism .Entered the precincts of the palatial complex which had statues of St Mother Teresa and St Pope John Paul 11 on the entrance pathway..There was a beautiful Christmas crib in one corner of the large courtyard.Further sown Park Street came across St Xavier's College a prestigious educational institution of Kolkata.
"BONNY KOLKATA METRO " travel :- On the Metro train .
From Park Street came back to my hotel and after a brief rest decided to tour "KOLKATA'S UNDERWORLD TRAVEL " which is the "Kolkata Metro Train Service". After a brief rest in the dormitory walked to Park Station and was impressed by Kolkata's Metro train service. Photography is strictly prohibited and the queue's for booking tickets was orderly and not chaotic akin to boarding the infamous Calcutta now Kolkata buses of the 1980's.Booked a Rs 10 ticket to "Shobhabazaar Sutanuti" station which was issued in the form of tokens.The token has to be scanned to enter the platform and on entering the train was amazed at the excellent A/c compartment and comfortable travel.On alighting at "Shobhabazar Sutanuti" inquired for directions to Asia's most famous Red light locality "Sonagachi" which was also the base for the classic Bengali novel by Sarat.Chandra.Chattopadhyay titled "Devdas(1917)".As a Adrenalin junkie I always make it a point to see the "Good,Bad and the Ugly" side of any city i visit , in India or foreign Country's.Travel is no fun just visiting safe and tourist tailored friendly locales.Walked the straight broad road up to Jatindra Mohan avenue and got a glimpse of "Sonagachi". I was surprised to see women trying to seduce clients on the main road let alone the "Gully's" and hence decided to play safe rather than be sorry. "Devdas" of 1917 would definitely have not visited and met his Chandramukhi in 2016 Sonagachi. How the times and status of the Courtesan's have changed in a century ? After a few photographs from a distance walked back to "Shobhabazar Sutanuti" station and boarded the metro train to Kalighat Metro station..
View of "KALIGHAT KALI TEMPLE" . On alighting at "Kalighat Metro Station" it was a long walk from the main road through a narrow lane to the famous landmark "KALIGHAT KALI TEMPLE" of Kolkata. On reaching the temple which was crowded with devotees a young pundit approached me for providing guidance in entering the temple and placing offerings .This is a normal procedure that every tourist that visits the temple faces and is also a source of earning for some of these pundits. Just had a exterior tour of this historic temple that is about 200 years old and situated on the banks of a small canal called Adi(Original) Ganga.
Shops selling Religious offerings and icons outside Kaighat Kali Temple. The Kali temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Kali is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas and one of the most sacred temple for Hindu's.Calcutta is said to have derived its name from the word Kalighat as this Ghat(Landing stage) was once situated on the old route of the Hooghly river which gradually changed over the Centuries.The original temple was a small hut and the present temple built in 1809.
Kolkata is the only city in India with "TRAM" transport. :- At Esplanade. From "Kalighat Metro" boarded the metro train to Esplanade station with the ticket costing a mere Rs 10.On alighting at Esplanade realized that time had stood still in this heartland of Kolkata city.Street side hawkers were busy selling their wares while i walked the short distance to "K.C.Das Pvt Ltd", the landmark Bengali sweet shop of Kolkata. It was brightly decorated for the Christmas and New Year festivities complete with a Santa Claus.I was pleased on seeing that Christmas was celebrated as a commercial festival beside's the religious significance. Lunch was pure vegetarian consisting of one Samosa, one Rossogolla and one Nolen Gurer Payesh.The total lunch bill amounted to a mere Rs 44 only.After lunch walked all the way to wards Park Street and on the way walked into New Market.
"Nahoum & Sons" Confectioners(Est(1902) in New Market. On entering New Market headed towards "Nahoum & Son's", one of the oldest bakeries in Kolkata known for its plum cakes.Purchased a small 300 gm plum cake for taking home to Mumbai as i had celebrated Christmas in Mumbai with a plum cake from "Kyani & CO(Est 1904)".Wasn't i also a vintage traveller having survived years of travels and adventures ? From New Market walked straight back to my dormitory through the now familiar route akin to a decades old Kolkata resident. Years of sea sailing and now solo travels have made me a chameleon at adjusting to situations and circumstances although age has slowed me down .
"PARK STREET POST OFFICE" :- In the era of "Internet" its nice seeing a well maintained "Post-Office". After a brief rest in my hotel headed into Park Street with my destination being "Bow Barracks", the famous Anglo-Indian residential locale in Kolkata.I always do a lot of research before any travel to a Country,City or locale and thanks to the convenience of the "INTERNET" knowledge is at the click of a mouse rather than the former tedious process of researching through library books and magazines.Had read a article by Kolkata Politician and Quiz television personality Mr Derek.O'Brien regarding the celebration of Christmas and New Year in Kolkata. As a Anglo Indian he had specifically mentioned "Bow Barracks" celebrations which according to his write-up lasted until the first week of January.Strangely on arrival in Kolkata on Thursday(29-12-2016) the first place i inquired in plush Cosmopolitan Park Street was "Bow Barracks" whom no one seemed to know.Today i decided to not leave Kolkata without discovering the Anglo-Indian adda of "Bow Barracks". Walking along just happened to see a young couple with whom i inquired about 'Bow Barracks" and to my good luck was on target. Walked to Park Station and purchased the unbelievable metro train ticket of Rs 5 to"Chandni Chowk station".
"BOW BARRACKS" :- A local rink football game in progress in the colony.. On alighting the metro train at "Chandni Chowk" made inquiries and walked the straight route towards "Bow Barracks".Un reaching the complex came across a open ground with young children playing rink football.A tournament was in progress which was definitely a festive tournament.A local spectator directed me towards the colony gate and observed that the colony was well decorated with decorative lights and a small crib.Bow Barracks was originally a garrison's mess consisting of six blocks of three storied buildings built for the army during World War-1.The buildings are red brick in colour and age in the form of shabbiness is evident on the exterior of the buildings.After the soldiers left India these barracks were handed over to the Anglo-Indian community of Kolkata. Over the decades it has become synonymous with the annual Christmas celebrations in Kolkata. Struck a conversation with Anglo -Indians Mr Roger.Banerjee, a young Anglo-Indian and Mr Allan.Tham of Chinese Anglo-Indian lineage who were now residing and working in Bangalore but always made it a point to be in Bow Barracks and Kolkata for Christmas and New Year. They explained me the celebrations in the colony and that the main musical dance was on Friday(23-12-2016) with the colony street packed to capacity and media in full attendance.Over Christmas/New Year weeks colony has different programmes and Mr Allan.Tham who was of my generation did mention that over the decades the pomp has decreased due to a decrease in the Anglo-Indian population of Bow Barracks as well as Kolkata. Bow Barracks in 2016 was no more a total Anglo-Indian commune unlike to Parsi colonies in Mumbai and had various other communities living in the colony.My own school "Christ Church School" at Byculla in Mumbai was started for the "Anglo-Indian" community of Bombay and today in 2016 i presume the number of Anglo Indians studying in the school could be counted on the finger tips ! From Bow Barracks walked towards the original "China Town" of Kolkata as directed by Mr Allan.Tham but all i discovered were a few Chinese shops in a densely populated locality.Walked all the way to "Central Metro Station" and boarded the train to Park Street.Yes i had at last discovered and understood "Bow Barracks" of Kolkata.
PARK STREET :- Any challenge to being the best decorated street in India on Christmas/New Year ? On Alighting at Park Street metro station walked down Park street absolute lively in decorations and revelers.The sight of the now almost extinct yellow coloured Ambassador taxi's on the road was something different to the eyes akin to viewing Roll's Royce's on the roads of Mumbai.In Kolkata 20th century India still co-existed with 21st century India .Made my way into "Oxford Bookstore" on Park Street and browsed through the new collections, a self confessed "Bookworm". Observed second hand booksellers displaying their books on the footpath which is also a rare sight in Mumbai.Dinner was at "Mancherji's" restaurant and Mrs Mancherji gave me the recipe for "Bengali fish curry".After dinner walked back to the hotel and had a almost sleepless night.Officially woke up at 0530 hrs to the prayer call of Muezzin of Madina Mosque .After my normal routines went for a casual walk towards park Street.
St Thomas Church :- In 1997 Mother Teresa lay in state in this church for one week before her funeral Walked the short distance from Mirza Ghalib Street onto Park Street that was desolate and empty at approximately 0605 hrs.While visiting "Peter Cat" restaurant on Middleton Row of Park Street had noticed a steeple at the end of the road which was definitely a church. Decided to visit the church and made my way into "St Thomas Church" . There was a small entrance gate to the main church and on entering the church found it empty akin to the churches normally seen in Europe.Walked to the first bench near the altar and was meditating when i saw a elderly gentleman shuffling towards the altar.He approached me and requested me to read the Gospel reading for the first mass of the day at ."Better late than too late" as i had never ever in my life read a Gospel reading during a mass.Fr Mervyn.Carapiet guided me to the pulpit and explained me the passage to be read.After browsing through the scriptures returned to my seat. Mass began as usual at 0615 hrs with just four parishioners in one of the largest churches in Kolkata .During the State funeral of Mother Teresa in 1997 World dignitaries and people from all walks of life visited this church to pay their respect to her as she lay in state in this church. Reminded me of visiting the churches in Krakow and Prague where the congregation could be counted during week-day masses.I read the scripture reading to the congregation of three parishioners and was surprised at my own fluency.After the mass one of the mass attendee approached Fr Mervyn.Carapiet to pray for his father suffering from cancer.Had a talk with Fr Carapiet who was of Armenian descent and at 83 years of age held a Doctorate in theology and was a professor teaching at various institutions before retirement. He spoke about the diminishing parishioners over the years as the Anglo-Indian population of Kolkata decreased due to immigration to other Country's mostly Australia.
St Thomas Church(1842):- Reputed "Loreto House " school is in the Church complex. St Thomas Church was opened in September 1842. The Church has a Doric Columned Portico with a short Octagonal Spire. The body of "Saint Mother Teresa" was in state for 7 days after her death in 1997. Notice the tallest building in Kolkata under construction in the background of the photo."Loreto House" established in 1842 and the oldest "Loreto Girls School" in India is situated within the Church complex. Kolkata has not changed much socially compared to other Metropolitan City's of India .Topographically the "Metro Railway Network", "Road Flyovers" and modern high rise buildings have definitely changed the skyline and transport within the city. Most important transformation in Kolkata is the availability of electric power supply 24/7 all over the city and the entire State of Bengal..
IN INDIA THIS SCENE CAN BE SEEN ONLY IN KOLKATA .IS THE SPORT OF COCK-FIGHTING MORE CRUEL THAN HARVESTING AND TRASPORTING OF BROILER CHICKENS IN THIS MANNER. The most ancient form of human transportation that also provides jobs to numerous people from the lower strata of the economic ladder of India.
Staff of "BENGAL HYUNDAI" on Park Street beginning the day's work by greeting people on the road. From St Thomas Church made me way back towards the hotel and on the way came across this unique sight .Staff of "Bengal Hyundai" had lined outside their office with a banner greeting all passers-bye along the street. This was their daily routine of beginning their day's work in "Korean Style" adapted to Kolkata city. As for me was hoping to have a nice train journey back to Mumbai.Came a cross a bizarre sight outside Pushpak hotel on "Mirza Ghalib Street" of a plush Jaguar car heading towards New Market caught in a traffic jam with the Ambassador taxi and other common commuter cars.All cars are equal on the congested roads of Kolkata and Mumbai irrespective of price tags ! Had some rest in my hotel as a tough day of travel lay ahead of me.Later just strolled outside my hotel and visited the only Chinese shoe shop in the entire area. Spoke to the Chinese owner whose 95 year old mother originally from China seated outside the shop was in the pique of health.He told me that since his children didn't want to continue with his shoe business he was the last of the Chinese shoemaker in the entire New market vicinity.Purchased a pair of shoes from his shop.As generations change sometimes the occupations between parents and children also change as has happened with the numerous once popular "Irani Restaurants" of Mumbai.
"HOT KATI ROLL" at Park Street :- My last lunch in Kolkata. Finally at 1130 hrs said good-bye to my plush A/c dormitory and walked the short distance from Hotel Pushpak to Park Street. Lunch was "Mutton Kat Roll" costing Rs 70 which brought back memories of "Nizam's" at New Market during my sailing years at Kolkata Port. Times have changed over the decades and was surprised to know that the landmark "Nizam's" at Hogg Street New Market had closed shop and it was "Hot Kati Roll" that was the hottest fast food joint on Park Street and in Kolkata. "Nizam's" are credited to having invented the "Kati Roll" in 1932 by opening their restaurant in New Market locality..In the evening there is literally a queue to buy these "Kati Rolls" at "Hoti Kati Roll" which is in its 30's in the business of Kati Roll's in Kolkata.The owner was telling me that actor Om Puri would stand on the road like any common customer and relish the Kati roll of this small shop in prime Park Street locality.Purchased a parcel of "Mutton Kati Roll" for supper in the train.Adventure at its best.
Crossing the World famous "HOWRAH BRIDGE" by bus on the way to Howrah railway station. After the lunch of "Kati Roll" at Park Street boarded the bus and finally reached Howrah station at 1215 hrs. It was a long wait at the station finally boarding the "Gitanjali Express" in the same compartment "S12" and the same seat "N0 48" on which i had arrived into Kolkata. Life couldn't get more bizarre.It was a repetition of the journey to Kolkata with the compartment crowded with "R.A.C" passengers although i had a confirmed booking. Dinner was the "Kati Roll" parcel from Park Street. Finished reading the novel "God is a Gamer" by Ravi.Subramanian which i found too bizarre and complicated in plot but a education in the future of storing "Black Money" in the form of "BITCOINS". Nearing Mumbai the Eunuchs demanding alms were the prettiest in the business and it occurred to me if these were the same Eunuchs on my departure from Mumbai. Second class train travel had changed a little with pretty Eunuchs adding a touch of hilarity to the compartment at a cost to some passengers. Have visited Pattaya in Bangkok and was mesmerized by the "Transvestite Artists" performing dances to recorded music at the "Alcazar Theatre".Something different from the normal dances performed by normal male and female artists. I am sure one or two of these train eunuchs could be millionaires performing in dance entertainment shows in any part of the World rather than begging for alms on trains in India. Amazed that till date no Indian entertainment entrepreneur/Promoter has had a show performed by Transvestites akin to Pattaya in Bangkok which is a big commercial and artistic success with tourists.Ha Ha Ha Hee Hee Hee ?. Finally reached Mumbai at 2145 hrs on Wednesday(4-1-2017) experiencing my first day of New Year 2017 in my home city and in my house.The nomad was finally at a place called home in Mumbai. NOTE :- ALL OPINIONS EXPRESSED ARE OF MY OWN AND THE ENTIRE TOUR BLOG WRITTEN THROUGH MY VIEWS AND EXPERIENCE. A PERSONAL MEMOIR AND A GUIDE FOR TRAVELLERS.
